Emergency Call Protocol for Garage Door Companies

A garage door emergency is any situation where the door creates a safety risk, blocks a vehicle, or leaves the home unsecured. In this trade, the biggest danger is spring tension (torsion or extension) and a heavy door that can slam down or jump off track. Treat these as TRUE emergencies (same-day or ASAP): - Door is stuck OPEN (home is unsecured) and won’t close. - Door is stuck CLOSED with a car trapped inside and the customer needs to leave for work/medical. - Broken spring (customer often says “I heard a loud bang” or “the door feels 1,000 pounds”). - Door off track / rollers out, door is crooked, or the bottom is kicked out. - Cables hanging/loose, or one side looks higher than the other. - Door slams shut, won’t stay open, or moves in jerks (risk of crushing injury). - Opener strains/smokes, sparks, or trips breaker repeatedly. Treat these as URGENT but usually not life-or-death (schedule within 24–72 hours): - Opener won’t respond but the door moves smoothly by hand. - Remote/keypad issues, Wi‑Fi/app issues, range problems. - Noisy door, squeaks/grinding, slow travel. NOT emergencies (book normally): - New door quotes ($1,000–$4,000) or full system replacement planning ($2,000–$6,000). - Cosmetic panel dents, paint, minor weather seal gaps (unless door won’t close). Always remember: if a customer mentions a broken spring, off-track door, or loose cable, you must assume high risk and stop them from touching it.

Your goal is to classify the call fast, prevent the customer from getting hurt, and decide if you dispatch now. Ask these in order and write down the answers. Triage script (say it exactly like this): 1) “Is the door stuck open, stuck closed, or moving but acting weird?” 2) “Is a car trapped inside or do you need the door working within the next few hours?” 3) “Did you hear a loud bang, and does the door feel extremely heavy to lift?” (broken spring) 4) “Is the door crooked, off the track, or are cables hanging on either side?” 5) “Did anyone try to force it open, pull the red emergency release, or loosen any bolts?” 6) “Do you see a gap in the torsion spring above the door?” (gap = broken torsion spring) 7) “Is the opener humming, smoking, sparking, or tripping the breaker?” Quick classification rules: - Any YES to #2, #3, #4, or #7 → emergency. - Door stuck open (even without spring issues) → emergency because of security. - Remote/keypad-only problems with door operating fine by hand → urgent/scheduled. Customer language to listen for: - “It’s super heavy,” “won’t lift,” “bang like a gunshot,” “cable is dangling,” “door is hanging,” “one side dropped,” “rollers popped out,” “it slammed down.” If you use an answering service like SkipCalls, load these questions into your AI receptionist so every emergency caller gets the same safety-first triage—even when you’re on a ladder or winding springs.

Garage doors hurt people when customers try “one more lift” or start turning set screws. Your protocol must include clear do-not-touch instructions. Say this immediately if you suspect spring, cable, or off-track issues: - “Please stop using the door. Don’t try to lift it, and don’t pull the red emergency release again.” - “Keep kids and pets away from the door opening.” - “If the door is stuck open, do not stand under it. If you can do it safely, back the car out only if the door is fully open and stable.” If the door is stuck open and they can’t secure it: - “Do you have a second person there? If the door is stable and you can do it safely, you can lock the door from the inside using vice grips/clamps on the track—only if you already have them and know what they are. Otherwise, wait for us.” What NOT to tell them: - Don’t coach them to unwind springs, adjust set screws, or reset cables. - Don’t tell them to ‘just disengage the opener and lift it’ when a spring is likely broken. - Don’t tell them to ‘force it down’ if it’s off track. If they insist on moving the door (for a trapped car), set a boundary: - “I can’t recommend lifting it if a spring or cable is compromised. It can fall. The safest option is for us to come out.”

Use this decision tree so anyone (you, your office, or a backup) can make the same call. Decision Tree: A) Door stuck OPEN? - YES → Emergency dispatch ASAP (security risk). If after-hours, offer fastest ETA window. - NO → go to B. B) Car trapped / must leave within hours? - YES → Emergency dispatch ASAP. - NO → go to C. C) Signs of broken spring (bang + heavy door or visible spring gap)? - YES → Emergency dispatch (spring replacement $200–$400 typical). - NO → go to D. D) Door off track / crooked / cable hanging / roller out? - YES → Emergency dispatch (high risk). Often includes track/roller reset + cable work. - NO → go to E. E) Opener issue only? - If opener hums/smokes/sparks/breaker trips → Emergency dispatch. - If remote/keypad/wall button issue and door moves fine by hand → Urgent (book next available; opener repair $150–$300 typical). F) New door or replacement quote? - Scheduled appointment (do not label as emergency). If you’re on the fence, treat it as emergency when there’s any fall risk (spring/cable/off-track) or the home is unsecured.

After-hours is where you win (or lose) emergency work. Customers with a stuck door will call 3–5 companies until someone answers. Your after-hours plan needs a real person or a reliable system answering within 1–2 rings. On-call coverage plan: - Set an on-call rotation (even if it’s just you): Weeknights vs weekends. - Define your service area for after-hours (e.g., within 20 miles). Outside that zone becomes “first slot tomorrow” unless it’s a door stuck open. - Keep an emergency-ready truck: common torsion spring sizes, center bearings, cables, rollers, hinges, drums, winding bars, vice grips, impact, and a ladder. After-hours ETA rules (simple and honest): - Give a window, not a promise: “60–90 minutes” instead of “I’ll be there in 30.” - If you’re currently on a job: “You’re next. I’m finishing a spring job now; my ETA is about 90–120 minutes.” - If weather is bad or roads are icy (winter peak): add buffer and say why. If you frequently miss after-hours calls because you can’t answer while working, tools like SkipCalls can pick up 24/7, filter spam, collect photos, and book the emergency slot while you’re on-site.

Bad dispatch wastes time: wrong spring size, no access, or the customer isn’t even home. This checklist prevents that. Before dispatch, collect: - Full name + best callback number. - Exact address + gate code + parking notes. - Door type: single vs double; steel vs wood; high-lift if they know. - Symptoms: stuck open/closed, bang, heavy, off-track, cable hanging, opener hum. - Photos (text request): 1) Inside view of torsion spring above the door 2) Both vertical tracks/rollers 3) Bottom brackets/cable area (from a safe distance) 4) Opener motor head and rail - Any prior work: “Has anyone replaced springs before? Do you know when?” - Safety: “Is the car inside? Is anyone injured? Is the door currently supported?” Access rules: - Confirm someone 18+ will be there. - Confirm the door area is cleared (cars backed out if possible, tools/bikes moved). Stocking based on likely job: - Broken spring → bring spring bin, center bearing, cones, fasteners (spring replacement $200–$400). - Off-track/cable → rollers, hinges, cables, drums. - Opener urgent → common gear kits/capacitors (opener repair $150–$300), plus surge protector recommendations. Key detail: photos help you spot a broken spring gap, frayed cable, or bent track before you arrive, and that’s the difference between one trip and two.

Emergency customers are stressed. If you don’t set expectations, they’ll call the next company even after booking you. Your wait-time script: - “You’re on the schedule for tonight. My ETA is 60–90 minutes. If anything changes, I’ll call you.” - “Please don’t try to lift or close the door. Springs and cables can snap.” - “When I arrive, I’ll do a quick safety inspection, explain what failed, and give you a price before I start.” If you’re delayed: - Text at the 30–45 minute mark: updated ETA + reason. - Offer options: “I can still come tonight around 10:00–10:30, or I can book first thing tomorrow 8:00–9:00.” What customers actually want to know: - Can I get my car out? - Is my house secure tonight? - How much is this going to cost right now? Answer directly: - “If it’s a broken spring, typical spring replacement is $200–$400 plus after-hours fee if applicable. I’ll confirm after I inspect.” - “If it’s off track, pricing depends on track damage and cable condition, but we’ll go over it before any work.”

Emergency pricing isn’t about gouging; it’s about covering on-call labor, drive time, and risk. Put it in writing and train your script so every customer hears the same explanation. Suggested structure (adjust to your market): - Standard diagnostic/service call: $X (your normal rate). - After-hours emergency dispatch fee (evenings/weekends/holidays): +$75 to +$150. - Common emergency repairs: - Spring replacement: $200–$400 (plus after-hours fee if applicable) - Opener repair: $150–$300 (plus after-hours fee if applicable) How to explain it: - “Because it’s after-hours, there’s an emergency dispatch fee of $___ that covers the on-call technician and immediate response. I’ll still give you the full price before I start.” Deposit policy (useful for false emergencies): - For after-hours calls, take a card-on-file or a small dispatch deposit (applied to the invoice). If they cancel when you’re en route, the dispatch fee is non-refundable. No-surprises rule: - You do not start work until they approve the price (text/email approval works). This protects your margins when the job is a 30-minute reset vs a full spring/cable repair, and it prevents angry “I thought this was free” calls at 11 PM.

Emergency jobs are higher risk: injuries, property damage claims, and “it was fine before you touched it” disputes. Documenting takes 2 minutes and can save you thousands. Minimum documentation checklist: - Call notes: symptoms, safety warnings you gave (“advised customer not to operate door”). - Photos before work: broken spring gap, cable condition, track alignment, opener settings. - Photo of door label/model and opener model. - Work performed: parts replaced (spring size if you track it), number of turns, cable reset, track straightening. - Safety test results: balance test, force settings, auto-reverse test. - Final photos/video: door opening/closing, aligned tracks. If the door is dangerous and they refuse repair: - Have them sign a “declined repair / unsafe condition” note. - Offer a temporary safety option if possible (e.g., secure door closed) and document it. Use call transcription if available so you can prove you warned them not to lift the door. (This is another place where SkipCalls can help by automatically saving call transcripts.)

In garage doors, customers often label everything an emergency because they want you fast. You need a filter that still feels helpful. Common false emergencies: - “Door won’t open” but it’s a dead remote battery. - “Opener’s broken” but the lock/vacation switch is on. - “It’s off track” but it’s just a crooked close due to an obstruction. Your quick filter script: - “Is the door currently stuck open and leaving the house unsecured?” - “Is a car trapped and you must leave in the next few hours?” - “Did you hear a loud bang or does it feel extremely heavy?” Remote/keypad mini-check (only if NO spring/off-track signs): - “Try the wall button inside the garage. Does it work?” - “Look for a blinking light on the opener or keypad.” - “Check if the manual lock is engaged on the door.” Rules to prevent wasted trips: - After-hours requires card-on-file/dispatch deposit. - If it’s clearly a remote/battery issue, offer next-day booking and a DIY battery tip. - Ask for photos before you roll, especially for ‘off track’ claims. Important: Never ‘talk them into’ operating a door you suspect has a broken spring or cable issue. Your filter should reduce wasted dispatches, not increase injuries.