Emergency Call Protocol for Handymen

For a handyman, an “emergency” is any situation that’s actively causing damage, leaving the home unsecured, or creating a safety hazard that can’t reasonably wait until the next business day. Most customers will say “It’s an emergency!” when they really mean “I’m stressed and want it fixed fast.” Your job is to sort “right now” from “soon.” True handyman emergencies usually fall into three buckets: 1) Water where it shouldn’t be (active leak, supply line burst, toilet overflow that won’t stop). 2) Security issues (door won’t close/lock, broken strike plate, window won’t latch after a break-in attempt). 3) Safety hazards (sparking outlet cover, smoking switch, loose handrail on main stairs, fence panel down with a dog escaping into traffic). Not emergencies (but still important): dripping faucet that can be caught in a bucket, a sticky door, cosmetic drywall holes, a broken cabinet hinge, furniture assembly, painting touch-ups, “my TV mount is crooked,” or “I need this done before company arrives.” These are schedule jobs in the $100–$1,000 range (assembly $100–$400, drywall $300–$1,000, painting $300–$3,000), not after-hours roll-outs. When in doubt, define emergency by consequence: “Is it causing damage right now, unsafe right now, or does it leave your home open right now?” If not, it’s not an emergency—offer the next available slot. Use customer language to translate quickly: “gushing,” “won’t stop,” “smells like burning,” “sparking,” “can’t lock,” “door won’t shut,” “water coming through ceiling,” “fence is down and my dog will get out.” Those words mean you triage immediately.

You need a decision tree because you can’t safely do a long phone call while holding a drill or standing on a ladder. Keep it to yes/no questions that tell you: (1) is this truly urgent, (2) can the customer make it safer right now, and (3) do you need to dispatch immediately or schedule. Decision Tree: A) Is anyone in immediate danger? (smoke, electrical burning smell, ceiling collapse, gas smell) - YES → Tell them to leave the area and call 911 / gas company. You do not respond. - NO → Go to B. B) Is there active water damage right now? (water running, ceiling dripping steadily, toilet overflowing and won’t stop) - YES → Go to “Stop the damage” instructions below, then decide dispatch. - NO → Go to C. C) Is the home unsecured? (can’t lock exterior door, window won’t close after storm/break) - YES → Dispatch if you can arrive within your emergency window; otherwise guide temporary securing and schedule first slot. - NO → Go to D. D) Is there an active electrical hazard? (sparking, outlet hot, buzzing, tripping breaker repeatedly) - YES → Have them turn off that breaker if safe. If they can’t, advise electrician/911 if severe. Often this is not handyman territory after-hours. - NO → Go to E. E) Is it comfort-only or convenience? (dripping faucet, stuck interior door, loose cabinet, drywall hole, TV mount) - YES → Not emergency. Schedule. - NO → Get photos and schedule, or dispatch if it’s damage/security. “Stop the damage” instructions you can read verbatim: - Water: “Find the shutoff under the sink/toilet and turn it clockwise. If you can’t stop it, shut off the main water valve at the meter/garage. Put a bucket under the drip and move anything valuable.” - Toilet overflow: “Turn the water valve behind the toilet clockwise. If it keeps rising, take the tank lid off and lift the float; if it still won’t stop, shut off the main.” - Door won’t lock: “Keep the door closed. If it’s safe, use a temporary wedge or put two long screws through the strike plate area if it’s loose. If you feel unsafe, call police first.” Always ask for 2–3 photos or a short video. For emergencies, photos help you grab the right parts (supply line, angle stop, strike plate, deadbolt, hinges, fence hardware) and avoid a second trip.

After-hours is where you win jobs—because customers call 3 handymen and hire whoever responds first with a clear plan. But you can’t answer calls while you’re on a ladder or running a circular saw. Your after-hours system must be safe and fast. Set an “Emergency Window” you can actually meet. Example: 6pm–9pm weekdays, 9am–6pm weekends, and no emergency dispatch after 9pm unless it’s severe water or a broken exterior lock. Don’t promise “ASAP” if you’re 45 minutes away in an attic. Use a two-step response so you don’t live on your phone: 1) Immediate auto-reply/voicemail that collects the right info (address, problem, photos, can they shut off water, is the home unsecured). 2) A callback window you can safely do: “I’ll call you back within 10–15 minutes.” If you use an AI answering service like SkipCalls, set it to treat “leak,” “burst,” “won’t lock,” “sparking,” “fence down” as priority keywords, text you the transcript, and request photos automatically. That way you’re not balancing a phone on your shoulder while holding a ladder. Keep an after-hours go-bag in your truck so you can truly respond: - Water: 3/8" and 1/2" supply lines, angle stops, teflon tape, pipe dope, assorted washers, adjustable wrench, channel locks. - Security: deadbolt kit, knob set, strike plates, 3" screws, shims, drill bits. - Weather/fence: exterior screws, brackets, gate latch, fence clamps, zip ties (temporary), tarp. Your after-hours goal is not to “finish the remodel.” It’s to stop damage, secure the home, and set a follow-up appointment if needed (for example, you stop a leak tonight, then schedule a $300–$1,000 drywall patch next week).

Dispatching as a one-person operation means you need a repeatable script and a “go/no-go” checklist. If you wing it, you’ll drive across town for a ‘leak’ that’s just a drip into a bucket—and lose a $200–$400 scheduled slot tomorrow. Go/No-Go Checklist (before you leave): - Is there active damage/security/safety right now? - Can the customer shut off water / power safely? - Do you have clear address + best entrance + parking notes? - Do you have photos/video? - Do you have the likely parts on hand? - Did you quote the emergency call-out fee and hourly rate? - Did you set the arrival window and get a ‘Yes’? Dispatch Workflow (one-person): 1) Collect info: Name, address, callback number, problem, photos. 2) Safety instruction: water shutoff/breaker/off-limits area. 3) Quote structure: “Emergency call-out is $X + $Y/hr, materials extra.” 4) Confirm window: “I can be there between 7:15–8:00.” 5) Text confirmation: send the pricing + ETA + what to do until you arrive. If you’re on a job and can’t leave: - Offer the soonest slot and a temporary safety step. - If it’s severe (burst supply line and they can’t stop it), refer to a plumber for immediate stop-the-bleed and offer follow-up repairs (drywall, trim, painting). That turns a lost call into a later $300–$3,000 job. Use short texts because customers are stressed. Example text you can copy/paste: “On my way. ETA 7:30–8:00. Please shut off water at the valve under the sink (clockwise). Put a bucket under the leak. Emergency call-out $149 + $125/hr. Reply YES to confirm.”

Customers don’t need perfection—they need clarity. The fastest way to lose an emergency call is vague timing like “I’ll try to get there.” Give a window, and give a plan for what they should do while they wait. Rules for wait times that work in real handyman life: - Always give a window, not a minute: “7:00–7:45,” not “7:15.” - Set an update trigger: “If I’m not there by 7:45, I’ll text you by 7:30 with an update.” - Tie the wait to safety steps: “Shut off the valve now, then I’m heading over.” If you’re mid-job (common): - Tell them what you’re doing and the realistic next point you can leave: “I’m on a ladder finishing a light fixture. I can safely call you in 10 minutes and I can be there in 60–90 minutes.” - Offer a choice: emergency dispatch later today (higher price) or first available slot tomorrow (normal rate). Customer-friendly phrases you can use: - “I can stop the damage tonight, then we schedule the full fix.” - “If it’s a steady leak and you can shut off the valve, we can book you for the first slot tomorrow and save you the emergency fee.” - “If your door won’t lock and you’re not comfortable overnight, that’s an emergency and I’ll prioritize you.”

Emergency pricing is not about gouging—it’s about protecting your schedule and compensating you for after-hours disruption, drive time, and the fact you’re dropping family time or a planned job. If you don’t price emergencies clearly, you’ll resent them and start ignoring calls. A simple pricing model you can use today (adjust to your market): - Emergency Call-Out Fee (after-hours): $99–$199 (covers priority dispatch + first 30 minutes on site). - Emergency Hourly Rate: $125–$200/hr (typical scheduled hourly is $75–$200/hr; emergencies are the top end). - Materials: cost + 20–35% (because you’re running to the hardware store at night). - Minimum: 1 hour after call-out. Examples tied to real emergency calls: - Leaking supply line under sink: $149 call-out + 1 hr at $150 = ~$299 + $15–$35 parts. - Broken exterior door lock/strike plate repair: $149 call-out + 1–2 hrs at $150 = $299–$449 + hardware. - Fence panel down after storm (temporary secure): $149 call-out + 2 hrs at $150 = ~$449 + brackets/screws. Offer a “save money” option to prevent arguments: - “If you can shut the water off and it’s not damaging anything now, I can come tomorrow at my normal rate.” Always state pricing before you drive. Get a “YES” by text so you don’t arrive to a surprised customer.

Emergency jobs turn messy fast: water everywhere, stressed homeowners, quick decisions. Documentation keeps you safe from disputes and helps you upsell the next scheduled job ethically (“Here’s what needs to happen next to make this right”). Your emergency documentation checklist: - Before photos/video: source of leak, damaged drywall, door alignment, lock condition, fence damage. - What you told the customer to do: “Advised shutoff at angle stop/main.” - What you did: “Replaced 3/8" supply line, tightened angle stop, tested for leaks 10 minutes.” - Materials used: brand/size if possible. - After photos/video: dry floor, secure lock, temporary fence bracing. - Payment record: invoice with call-out + labor + materials. Write emergency notes like you’ll read them a month later between jobs: - “Kitchen sink cold line burst; customer shut off main; replaced stop + braided supply; recommended drywall check in 48 hrs; schedule patch if staining.” Turn emergency into future scheduled work (common handyman wins): - Leak → drywall patch ($300–$1,000) + paint blend ($300–$3,000). - Door kicked/forced → jamb repair + new deadbolt ($200–$500) + trim repair. - Storm fence → full panel replacement or post reset ($500–$2,000). If you use SkipCalls, keep call transcripts attached to the job so you can prove what was said about pricing and timelines.

False emergencies waste your evenings and break your schedule. The trick is to redirect without sounding dismissive. You’re not saying “no”—you’re saying “here’s the fastest safe plan.” Use a simple “Emergency Test” script: “Quick check: Is water actively running, is anything sparking/burning, or is your home unable to lock up? If none of those, it’s not an emergency and we can book the soonest opening.” Offer two options every time: - Option A (Emergency): higher price, today/tonight, stop-the-damage only. - Option B (Scheduled): normal rate, next available slot, full fix. Common false-emergency translations: - “My faucet is leaking everywhere!” → “Is it a steady stream or just dripping?” If dripping: schedule. - “My door is broken!” → “Can it close and lock?” If yes: schedule. - “My fence is down!” → “Is a dog getting out or is it blocking a driveway?” If no: schedule. - “My outlet is dead!” → If no burning/sparking: schedule; you can troubleshoot breaker/GFCI. Reduce repeat false emergencies by setting expectations on your voicemail and texts: - “For active leaks, unsecured doors, storm damage with safety risk: press 1 / reply EMERGENCY. For all other repairs: leave details and we’ll book the next available time.” This is where a 24/7 receptionist (human or AI) helps: the system can collect details and offer booking for non-emergencies while you keep working safely on a ladder.